Don’t forget to check out the post before this, which is making AT-ST part 1. I had left off having completed the top, front and sides of the control cabin. The bottom piece I have also subsequently added on, which is black in colour to seal the whole box up.

This time I decided to take on making the AT-ST. Or the long form is ‘All Terrain Scout Transport’. I have a caveat though, the final piece I made looks more like a fallen AT-ST. Read on to see what I mean.

Making Kuiil is basically like making a monkey, I think 😂. I added some monkey features to the cheeks, to the chin, some nostrils and an grumpy demeanor. And you’ve got a basic Kuiil. That’s where the fun part comes in, when start incorporating ingredients apart from just yarn.

Don’t forget to catch the previous post on making Razor Crest - part 1 before reading this. That post concluded with the basic skeleton of the Razor Crest.

This is a 2-part post on how I made the Razor Crest, which mainly showcases the basic components of the ship as well as how I had to do some trial and error to get the final amigurumi. 

I have tried figuring out for a long time how to make a bobble stitch extend outwards. If you have seen my previous post on making bobble stitches as amigurumi limbs, then you know that I prefer to make the limbs as part of a continuous stitch from the main body, because c’mon, who likes sewing? ;)

There were many versions of Baby Yoda that were released after the Mandalorian was launched. Back then, I had already made a few versions of Yoda, which were all not particularly satisfactory.

I haven’t made any reversible heads since my Harry Potter collection… after all, not many characters are two-faced. I was actually inspired by a Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde piece made by geekyhooker 😂.

When making miniature Amigurumi, sometimes it can be difficult to add in detailing over the body and clothes. After all, there isn’t much room to work with but you still want them to look as detailed as possible within a small surface area.

Just a background… I don’t like to add on limbs separately because it’s such a hassle. So I made an ‘extended bobble stitch’ for the limbs.

Like most crocheters, I find joining up the limbs a real drag. Since I prefer to making most of my amis mini, I tend to make the limbs as part of a continuous seamless stitch when I’m crocheting the body.

Changing colours can add a lot of variety and dynamics to your Amigurumi. Similarly, changing size can change the appearance of the final piece.

To make the Amigurumi bigger, you need to increase the stitches. Likewise, if you intend to make it smaller, then you need to decrease the stitches.

A double crochet is 2 times the height of a single crochet and also higher than a half double crochet. It is also a great stitch to use for bobble stitches.

For a half double crochet, the stitch is taller than that of single crochet. I frequently use hdc to create a subtle bust appearance for my female amigurumi as it looks raised above usual sc in the round.

Single crochet is the simplest stitch to make and what is used most of the time. You can use it in a chain or in a round like a magic circle.

In the previous post on starting with Ch2 and sc, we mentioned about how to start a round with that method but we do end up with a gap in the centre. When using the magic ring technique, you can pull the free end of the yarn taut such that the gap disappears!